A return from two months in the Arctic—Svalbard and East Greenland—ought to be brimming with epic tales of polar bear, muskox, blue whales, icebergs the size of apartment blocks. I can report shining moments with each of these wonders, but for now I’m here to introduce a creature, the first I’ve seen in my years of travelling to Greenland, best placed at the diminutive end of the scale. In North America these minuscule mammals, weighing in at ~200 grams, are called short-tailed weasels, while in North-East Greenland, where we spotted this little guy, they are named stoats (Mustela erminea).
To track a stoat darting across a hillside is a bit like keeping pace with a fast-forward animation. When stoats stand still they are so well camouflaged in their summer coat that you could miss them altogether. In NE Greenland, stoats share their habitat with lemmings, an even tinier Arctic creature who, unluckily for the lemming, provides the stoat its main diet. If I could portal myself back to Blomsterbugten (Flower Bay), where I snapped this photo just weeks ago, you would see this stoat decked out in winter white, its summer coat moulted, only the tip of its tail black.
Greenland is a land of contrasts, where the mightiest of landscapes, seemingly barren from a distance, harbour lush tundra forests, their plants sized for a doll’s house, their branches of Arctic Willow and Dwarf Birch rarely high enough to meet your knees. Here, growing in a meltwater stream bed and bathed in Greenland sunshine, is Broad-Leaved Willowherb, the country’s beautiful national flower.
Love your photos of Greenland, Robyn. I had a different picture in my mind of what it would look like and I’m surprised at the barrenness, although I love the pop of colour from the Willowherb. Your stoat is cute too!
I look forward to hearing a few more of your tales about this interesting place. xx
It’s fascinating hearing you say that Greenland looks different to the picture in your mind. It’s one of the frequent things that passengers who travel with Aurora say to me: It’s not what I imagined. Me: What did you imagine? Answer: I don’t know, but it wasn’t this. I think Greenland is a place that defies any picture that any of us can conjure up. As far as places go, I reckon it’s magic! Thanks for checking in, Colleen.
What interesting photos! Such a gorgeous animal and the Willowherb is beautiful, too. Thank you for sharing your travels with us.
Thanks, Louise. Those stoats are cute. It’s refreshing, I think, and grounding, to meet a creature who has no time or interest in the likes of mere humans!
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Beautiful photos, Robyn, and I love your wee stoat 🙂
Thanks, Amanda. He is a dapper chap!